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Category Archives: India

There is no try.

MUMBAI—In the literature, those accounts of mostly British people who have passed through here, Bombay is a way point. It is a place you pass through on your way to somewhere else, a place you stop for official business, training, garrison duty, before marching off or setting sail for points beyond. Of course the 20 […]

In the Bazaar

MUMBAI—At the risk of offending Edward Said, I will describe the famed Chor Bazaar. It is in a Muslim quarter of old Bombay, its narrow lanes caked with the accumulation of Bombay’s years and history, despite daily sweeping, one darkly glittering storefront after another, whose jumble of wares, all the amazing, exotic junk and treasure […]

Out of the City

MUMBAI—I had been too long in Mumbai. I had been too long with only the banyan trees of the city with their long tentacle roots for a taste of nature, the only horizon the Arabian Sea rolling in at the edge of the metropolis. But then one person introduced me to someone who introduced me to […]

On the Streets of Mumbai

Land of Water

MUMBAI—There is a liquid quality to Mumbai. Water is everywhere, omnipresent without being always visible. It is especially so now in the season of the monsoon, but even during the dry season there is a wetness and fluidity to the place. It is hard to catch your breath as it feels like half the air […]

If You Can Make It Here… Mumbai, Mumbai.

MUMBAI—There comes a moment in every journey, in every move to a new place, when the strange becomes normal, when what was overwhelming bizarre becomes mostly unremarkable. It is a shift more sudden than gradual. It only seems gradual because it does take time and because the shift often passes unnoticed. What was outlandish one week […]

On The Streets of Mumbai

On the Streets of Mumbai

 

Daybreak on the Other Side

MUMBAI—The day is breaking, all full of fog and blowing curtains of rain. There is the feeling of being on an alien planet, one much like our own but strange enough that you are always reminded how far you are from home. It is in the details of commonplace or ubiquitous things, details of things […]

Monsoon Five Scenes